top of page

The Puget Sound region of Washington State is a contrast in worlds. How can it be a young forest filled with ancient trees?

Think of that statement.  The forests of the Amazon basin were intact for over 20 million years, perhaps as long as 40 million.  The Columbia River system has been flowing for over 20 million years, perhaps as long as 40 million years.  They existed before Mount Rainier (less than 3 million), before the Cascade Mountains were raised, EVEN before the Olympic Mountains rose from the sea (yes, the Olympic Mountains were once part of the North American continental shelf and ocean terraine under the ocean surface).

Until 20 thousand years ago, much of Puget Sound and all of Bainbridge Island was under thousands of feet of rock (solid ice) of the glaciers of the last ice age.  And those ice ages scraped and tore up the landscape over and over for two million years.

The mature Puget Sound forests did not exist until 10,000 years ago.  And they no longer exist today.

It has been totally eliminated in the lowlands, with perhaps a large tree here or there.

Dolphin Place has a very small slice of what has been. Medium sized examples of the decedents of ancient trees and some of the understory that existed with them.  Breeding populations, not of bears and elk and cougars, but perhaps enough for Douglas Squirrels, Ensatina eschscholtzii oregonensis salamanders, and yellow spotted millipedes.

Dolphin Place Open Space contains 100-200 year old examples of the major ingredients of those original ancestral giants.  The site includes all the dominate species that existed before the logging centuries: the big three: Douglas Fir, Red Cedar, Hemlock; important players: Grand Fir and Yew. 

 

Of the most common major conifers we lack only Sitka Spruce and White Pine (our Pine died in a drought in 1976) as examples of a mature local specimens.  These two have been reintroduced to the property for people to enjoy.

Dolphin Place Original Conifers

All photos taken at Puget Sound Native Tree Garden unless otherwise noted

Douglas firs are majestic, fast-growing evergreen conifers known for their strong, straight wood and distinctive soft, deep green needles arranged all around the twigs, topped by unique cones with three-pronged bracts that look like a mouse's tail. They are crucial timber trees, develop thick, furrowed bark with age, and are iconic to western North America, offering great height and longevity, but are not true firs.

1- Douglas Fir is the tallest tree in Puget Sound, growing to over 300 feet tall and ten feet in diameter.

Douglas Fir

I'm a paragraph. Click here to add your own text and edit me. It's easy.

Western Red Cedar (Thuja plicata) is a large, native evergreen conifer from western North America, prized for its durable, rot-resistant wood, often used for siding, shingles, and decking, and known for its fragrant, scale-like foliage, reddish-brown fibrous bark, and impressive size, living for centuries. It's a key species in Pacific Northwest forests, valued for its beauty, longevity, and versatility in both natural settings and construction.

2- Western Red Cedar was the primary forest tree utilized by the First Peoples of Puget Sound, good for buildings, boats, and clothing.

Western Red Cedar

I'm a paragraph. Click here to add your own text and edit me. It's easy.

Western hemlocks (Tsuga heterophylla) are large, graceful evergreen coniferous trees native to the Pacific coast, known for their soft, feathery foliage with short needles of varying lengths and a distinctive drooping leader (top). They are an important species in Pacific Northwest forests, thriving in moist, cool climates, and are recognized by their graceful, pendulous branches and small cones, serving as Washington's state tree.

3- If left undisturbed, the Western Hemlock becomes the dominate tree in the Puget Sound climax forest.

Western Hemlock

I'm a paragraph. Click here to add your own text and edit me. It's easy.

Grand fir (*Abies grandis) is a large, fragrant evergreen conifer native to the Pacific Northwest, known for its graceful pyramidal shape, glossy dark green needles with white undersides, and strong citrusy-pine scent, making it a popular Christmas tree and valuable for wildlife habitat, though its wood isn't top-tier for lumber. These majestic trees can grow exceptionally tall (over 200 feet) and are easily recognized by their flat, two-ranked needles and upright cones that disintegrate on the tree.

4- The Grand Fir is one of the four major tree in the local Bainbridge forests.

Grand Fir

I'm a paragraph. Click here to add your own text and edit me. It's easy.

Western white pine (Pinus monticola) is a large, evergreen conifer native to western North America, known for its soft, blue-green needles in bundles of five, distinctive long cones, and lightweight, stable wood valuable for construction, paneling, and doors; it's Idaho's state tree but struggles with white pine blister rust.

5- While not so common as the other large firs of lower Puget Sound, the Western White Pine has a greater range of environments.

Western White Pine

I'm a paragraph. Click here to add your own text and edit me. It's easy.

Pacific yew (Taxus brevifolia) is a slow-growing, shade-tolerant evergreen conifer native to the Pacific Northwest, known for its hard, decay-resistant wood (used for bows) and its bark, which contains the anti-cancer compound taxol (paclitaxel). It typically grows as an understory tree with dark green needles, distinctive peeling reddish bark, and red, berry-like cones (arils), with the aril flesh being edible but the seed and other parts being highly toxic.

6- A beautiful understory tree, the Pacific Yew is very slow growing. Chemicals in the bark are a cure for breast cancer.

Pacific Yew

I'm a paragraph. Click here to add your own text and edit me. It's easy.

Sitka spruce (Picea sitchensis) is a giant, coastal evergreen conifer, the largest spruce species, thriving along the foggy Pacific Northwest coast from Alaska to Northern California, known for its impressive height, tolerance to salt spray, and exceptionally strong wood used in construction, aircraft, and musical instruments. Key features include stiff, sharp, bluish-green needles, thin scaly bark, and large cones, with the tree being a vital part of the coastal ecosystem and a source of valuable timber.

7- The strong and lightweight Sika Spruce wood allowed: Howard Hughes to build the largest airplane in the world; Bill Boeing to build thousands of WW-II warplanes, and the US navy to make fairings for their missiles

Sitka Spruce

I'm a paragraph. Click here to add your own text and edit me. It's easy.

Shore pines, or Pinus contorta var. contorta, are tough, adaptable evergreen conifers native to Pacific coastal regions (Alaska to California), known for their often twisted, irregular shapes, dark green needles in pairs, and tolerance for salt spray, wind, and poor soils, making them ideal for coastal landscapes and tough urban sites. They provide wildlife benefits and can grow 20-50 feet tall, with small, prickly cones that often stay closed.

8- The Shore Pine can be found along Rich Passage at the South eend of Bainbridge Island.

Shore Pine

I'm a paragraph. Click here to add your own text and edit me. It's easy.

Looking for land within Puget Sound that contained a significant forest and variety, we bought the property that became Dolphin Place Open Space after a two year search in 1973.

After scrambling through the brush, which obscured the view after only ten or twenty feet,  the attribute that was most soul satisfying was the size of the second growth forest trees that appeared after pushing aside the understory.

Only after acquiring the property did we discover the wealth of what was here.  All the major lower Puget Sound conifers were represented in mature form:

The Big 4:

  1. Douglas Fir

  2. Western Red Cedar

  3. Western Hemlock

  4.  Grand Fir

Douglas Fir:

  • Strongest wood

  • Most drought and fire resistant

  • Tallest

  • Long Lived

  • Rot resistant
     

Western Red Cedar

  • Most rot resistant live wood

  • Most water saturated soil tolerant

  • Largest girth

  • Shade tolerant

  • Capable of regeneration and layering

  • Weakest wood

  • Longest lived

Western Hemlock

  • Most shade tolerant

  • Capable of germination in the forest shade

  • Capable of sprouting in moss  nurse logs

  • In undisturbed forests, becomes the climax tree

Grand Fir: 

 

Grows along side Douglas Fir in Puget Sound.  Not quite as tall, not quite as fire resistant, not quite as long lived, but within the environment of the Puget Sound basin, is almost as common as the Doug.

 

 

 

Next up: two other conifers found naturally at the Puget Sound Native Tree Botanical Garden when

​the site was established in 1973

  • Western White Pine

  • Pacific Yew

Western White Pine:  Can grow in both dry and wet soils, and mixes further across the environments of Douglas Firs and Red Cedars, but is not as common.  Most in the region killed off by a European disease in the early 1900's.

​​​​​Pacific Yew:  Grows slowly in the understory of the big forest.  A Republican kind of tree:  lots of sun, grows slowly, mostly shade, grows slowly.  Slow and steady allows it to withstand change, which does occur over the centuries due to big storm blow downs and/or unseasonable droughts and freezes.

 

 

The Final Two:  Two Native Conifers found within walking distance the Puget Sound Native Tree Botanical Garden:

Sitka Spruce: The flared butt of these spruce's allows them to survive in soggier wetlands than the other native trees.  The largest of the Sitka's in our county is accessed by challenging the nettles of John Salter Park and braving the swamp of western Meig's Park to find this five foot diameter tree.

Shore Pine:  A few of the beautiful Pinus contorta contorta still grace the bluffs overlooking Rich Passage where Native Americans and Battleships of old used to transit.

Photo of neighbor's tree

bottom of page